Aug. 21, 2023
Carbon steel . . . half-hollow grind . . . 5/8 inch – too many technical terms?? Don’t worry, in the beginning, we were all a bit confused.
To make it as simple as possible for you to get started, we’ve explained the essential features of straight razors here.
The blade width is traditionally given in inches. In practice, straight razors with widths between 3/8 and 6/8 inches are the most common. Each size has its advantages for you to consider when making your purchase.
Narrow straight razors, show their strengths in tight facial areas such as around the nose, ears, or eyebrows. With a narrow straight razor, you can easily manoeuvre and set the right shaving angle in these areas. A 3/8 inch straight razor should be used mainly by skilled users.
Straight razors with a width of 5/8 inches are the real all-rounders. Thanks to their broad spectrum of tasks, they are the most common in the world of traditional wet shaving. Not only for experienced shavers, beginners should also use straight razors in this size. They easily manage the balancing act between precise trimming of contours on one side and a gentle shave on the other. The weight allows the straight razor to glide effortlessly over your face.
The 6/8 inch straight razor is best used to work for strong beard growth. Due to the high weight of the blade, it gently and smoothly glides over your skin without any effort.
A steel blank is ground and sharpened several times by hand to get a high-quality straight razor. There are different types of grinding methods which define the characteristics of a blade.
Straight razors with a flat grind are often called a “wedge” type ground straight razor. Its characteristics are rigidity and torsion-resistance. You will often find this grind on narrow straight razors to allow very precise shaving. The most traditional types of straight razors were ground only with this profile because technical possibilities of hollow grinding were not available. Nowadays, this grind is rarely used for full-face shaving. However, it offers advantages in combination with a narrow straight razor for precise shaving work.
FULL HOLLOW GRIND
Today, most straight razors are made with a full hollow grind. Up to 15 work stages of our most experienced straight razor sharpeners are necessary to achieve a full hollow grind. The flexible blade adapts best to your skin imperfections and is therefore very popular. The clear feedback with the characteristic sound guarantees a thorough and comfortable shave.
Half hollow ground blades are much more flexible than flat ground blades and vibrate slightly when in use. However, they are not as flexible as a straight razor blade with a full hollow grind. Some straight razor users appreciate these blades because they offer a compromise between flexibility and rigidity. This robustness makes straight razors less sensitive and provides a safe shave feeling.
Through the long history of straight razors, a lot of experimenting took place. Several types of points prevailed. Here you’ll find an overview of ours.
Advanced and professional shavers love the square point. It allows very precise shaving and trimming of contours, but it should be used with care – the sharp point carries a particular risk of injury.
Nowadays, the round head is the most popular point type for traditional straight razors. The benefit of the rounded point is that it reduces the risk of injury during use. As a beginner, you should reach styles with this point to learn the basics of wet shaving with before you reach for the more challenging models.
The French point is a good compromise between the round and square point styles. With this point, you can trim contours very nicely and shave them thoroughly without as much experience.
The Spanish point consists of an acute angle which changes into a concave shape at the cutting end. We have designed the head shape so that you can take care of your contours in the traditional wet shave without having to worry about safety.
Feb. 22, 2024
If you are looking to ditch your cartridge razor routine in favor of getting a classic barber shave in your own bathroom, then you're not alone. The world's best barbers always keep a straight razor in their arsenal in order to maintain the detailed lines along a gent's neck and beard. As beards have grown in popularity over recent years.
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